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MtAthos and St Paul’s Monastery I’m at the university of Thessaloniki in a computer room. It is Monday Jan 24th, noon my time. Had a great ride back yesterday from Mt Athos. We were able to catch a ferry that took us down the peninsula before returning back to Daphne ( the main port of Athos) and our trip "Out" ( they call leaving Athos going out) to Ouranopoli. It was a crystal clear day and we had our first view of the actual mountain of Athos . It is huge snow covered peak which looks much like Mt Rainier in terms of its perspective to everything else. We were able to see several other monasteries and theSkete of St Anne along the way. The Skete of St Anne is a collection of small cabins, huts, and small churches precariously perched on steep rock faces, some only accessible by ladder or narrow trail. Supplies are packed in or carried by donkey. I have some great photos of it. If I ever get back toAthos it definitely is a place I want to go. It was a great way to end the trip since much of the rest of trip was rainy or over cast.
We were able to stay at five monasteries, each very different. Travel on Athos is a logistical challenge since there are only very primitive roads. With only one day at each monastery allowed with out permission from the Abbot we were on the move constantly. There are several small four wheel drive vans that go between Karyes ( a small town on the east side ) and Daphne, the main port and arrival point, and the monasteries.
Athos is is like stepping back in time literally and figuratively. The monasteries are over a 1000 years old and although some have modernconvieniences (like centeral heating, toilets and electricity) they are very primitive.
We would spend about 8-10 hours per day in church services. The first service of the day would vary at each monastery according to theirtypikon. At the first two , Xeropotamou and Karakalou , we would rise at 12:30 am and be in church at 1, ending at about 5 am. A meal would immediately follow. We would sleep for a few hours and then have to catch a ride toKaryes and then to our next destination. Rest a few hours, back in church at 3 pm until about 5, have a meal, get shown around the place and sleep at about 7 or 8 pm and do it all over again. The last fewmonasteries: Philotheou, Vatopedi, and Gregoriou started their morning services at 4 am so we were able to have a more normal daytime schedule. The longest service we attended ran from 12 midnight to7am.
Although it may seem crazy to be in church that much, it is an indescribable experience. The churches are lit only by oil lamps and candles, there are no electric lights. Thus most of the time it is very dark which one gets use to but there is still somestumbling around. Generally speaking there would always be a monk or two to tell you where to go or help you out. The services were all in Greek but much of the time I knew what was happening. They do every possible facet of the services, but fortunately very quickly. On many occasions I almost fell over after nodding off to sleep. Dosing during services is actually a commonoccurrence even among the monks, it is inevitable given the nature of the schedule. One usually stands in a stall-like chair with arms about elbow height. The chair has a seat the that doubles as a seat and folds up to a half seat so that one can easily stand, half-sit/stand, or completely sit down. These line every wall of the churches; some have hundreds.
The church interiors are frescoed on every surface with of course ancient icons everywhere. While many of the churches are 1000 years or more old they often have been rebuilt or repainted during that time. Most all of monasteries were burned in the19th century by arson after a dispute with the Turks. Others have burned for various other reasons. We were in one church that was repainted right around the time of the American Revolution; it gave me a real sense of time perspective.
We are spending the day in the city seeing the sights. Tonight we are going to plan the rest of the trip. We are going to Metorea to see the monasteries there and will probably go to Mt Olympus. There are of course many churches here in Thessolaniki to visit as well.
Look for more details later.
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